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Bhutan through My Eyes

Television was first introduced only in 1996.

A country without a single traffic light!

There is only one airport in the whole country!

Airline – only the country’s national airline connect the country with the rest of the world, and that is only via – Delhi and Kolkata in India, Kathmandu in Nepal, Dhaka in Bangladesh and Bangkok in Thailand.

No railway track to be seen anywhere!

Sales of cigarettes and smoking are banned in the country!

‘Gross National Happiness’ is more important than Gross National Product!

Traditional national costumes – gho (or kho) for men and kira for ladies – are still commonly worn by the locals in their daily lives.

Yes, all these describe Bhutan, a small isolated-landlocked country bounded on the north-west and north by Tibet, China while the remaining part of the country, by India.

With an area of about 46,500sq km, it is about the same size as Switzerland. But it has only approximately one-tenth (about 680,000) of Switzerland’s population.

The country is known as Druk Yul to the locals. Druk Yul means Land of the Thunder Dragon. Druk means thunder dragon and it is the country’s national symbol. The people are called Drukpa, the leaders – Druk Gyalpo (Dragon Kings), the airline – Drukair, and druk appears on the national flag.

The country’s economy is based on agriculture, forestry, tourism and the sales of hydroelectric power to India.

Conscious of the negative effect tourism would bring about – environmental impact on the unique and unspoiled landscape and culture – the government is trying to curb on the no. of tourists by imposing high tariff. It has since gone up to USD$250 per day from USD$200.

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Bhutan through My Eyes is the continuation of my trip to Sikkim, India. After spending an interesting, fruitful, excitement-filled and sometimes rather eventful eight days, I could not wait to continue and cross over to Bhutan. Our first stop was Phuentsholing, the border town at the India / Bhutan boundary.

The Summary

Summary of the trip
(Click on the photo to view larger version)

The Route

(Click on the photo to view larger version)

Phuentsholing

Tourists are allowed to enter Phuentsholing without a visa and without having to pay for the hefty sum of USD$200-per-day tourist fee. Without the visa and the fee paid, no entry beyond Phuentsholing.

As soon as I entered the town, I could feel the Bhutanese culture and atmosphere by the distinct architecture and the people in their traditional gowns. The arch is one and even the petrol station is of Bhutanese architecture-style. We were told that it is a requirement that all buildings must have some features reflecting the country’s architecture and culture. Owners are subject to fine if they do not comply.

It was also interesting to note that all the signage of the shops is green in colour. I was told that it is not the regulation (of having a uniform colour), but it does make the place look ‘neat’ and ‘green’ (see photo below).

The arch demarcates the Bhutan / India border.
Foreground – India, background – Bhutan.

Petrol station with the Bhutanese architecture

‘Green’ signage

The Queen Mother’s winter residence – viewed from
Kharbandi Gompa located next to it
(not allowed to enter, not even the compound).

Kharbandi Gompa

Chortens at Kharbandi Gompa

View of Phuentsholing from the Gompa

Beautiful red flowers

On to Thimphu – Capital of Bhutan

After the brief visit to the Gompa, we left Phuentsholing for Thimphu, capital of Bhutan. Thimphu (2,400m) is about 172km north of Phuentsholing.

Having been through the bumpy-roller-coaster ride in much part of Sikkim, we were expecting (or hoping for) a much better road condition in Bhutan. We were surprised to encounter otherwise. On top of it, we were even more surprised to see smoke blanketing the skyline.

However, we were assured by our guide, Tshering that the bumpy road would soon be a thing of the past, as the initial stretch of the road we were on was being upgraded (road works causing the poor condition) and that we were going through the industrial part of the country, hence, the smoke.

Of course Tshering was right, as we moved away from the south, the road condition improved and the smoke disappeared in thin air.

Hopefully this type of road condition would end soon

Handsome guys and beautiful girls we met
along the way (above and below few)


Students on the way to school



Police check post. As in Sikkim, we had to go through
few police check posts along the way. Very strict indeed!

Scenery along the way

Passing through a small town

Treacherous road!?



Largest hydro-electric power plant in Bhutan (viewed from the restaurant).

Hotel Damview, Restaurant and Bar in Wangkha,
Chukha Dzongkhag (had our lunch here).

Interesting reminder!

Much better road condition now

Looking for Traffic Light?

Thimphu is one rare, unique world capital without traffic lights. Apparently, a few years ago, a traffic light was installed and before it could be commissioned, it was removed because it was deemed 'unsightly and impersonal’.

Thimphu, although a capital, is a small city by any standard with a popluation of only about 100,000.

The evening we arrived, it was drizzling and we experience more rain the following few days.

When the rain stopped, I took a slow and easy walk around the shopping area which is basically just one main street. Souvenirs, curios, handicrafts dominate the shops. There is a garment wholesaler near our hotel and the prices are very reasonable.

We spent the two-night stay in Thimphu visiting many of the tourist attractions, many of them are shown below here.

Thimphu by day

Thimphu by night

Main street of Thimphu town

Interesting to note that while the signboards
are green in Phuentsholing, it is all blue in Thimphu.

Only human-traffic light in Bhutan, no traffic light.

7-Eleven? Only 8 Eleven in Bhutan

Clean and pollution free!

Exploring Thimphu

National Memorial Chorten
The National Memorial Chorten was built in 1974 to honour the memory of the third king, Jigme Dorji Wangchuck. It is also a monument to world peace.

The memorial chorten is one of the most visible religious structures in Thimphu. The paintings and statues inside the monument provide a deep insight into Buddhist philosophy. People are seen circumambulating the chorten, some prostrating.

Mini Zoo
Visited the mini zoo of Bhutan where Takins, the national animal of Bhutan are housed.

Below explained why the animal was chosen as the national animal (extracted from Lonely Planet).

‘The reason for Bhutan selecting the Takin as the national animal is based on both its uniqueness and its strong association with the country's religious history and mythology. According to legend, when the great saint Lama Drukpa Kunley (called "the divine madman") visited Bhutan in the 15th century, a large congregation of devotees gathered around the country to witness his magical powers. The people urged the lama to perform a miracle. However, the saint, in his usual unorthodox and outrageous way, demanded that he first be served a whole cow and a goat for lunch. He devoured these with relish and left only bones. After letting out a large and satisfied burp, he took the goat's head and stuck it onto the bones of the cow. And then with a snap of his fingers, he commanded the strange beast to rise up and graze on the mountainside. To the astonishment of the people the animal arose and ran up to the meadows to graze. This animal came to be known as the dong gyem tsey (takin) and to this day, these animals can be seen grazing on the mountainsides of Bhutan.’

At National Memorial Chorten

A rare occasion when all members of the group,
the leader and the tour guide are in the same photo!


Prayer wheels play an important role
in the life of Bhutanese people.



Good road, clear weather, and beautiful scenery

Stopped here for a good view of Thimphu

Takin, the national animal of Bhutan (above and below)


The Butanese way of life is greatly
influenced by religion. Praying, chanting
and twirling prayer wheels as they walk.

The young nuns at the nunnery doing
their daily chores (above and below)



At the bazaar and Centenary Farmers Market

Bazaar (above and below)


Red rice (commonly taken in Bhutan)

Deep-fried rice

Big chillies – Bhutanese eat chillies
as a vegetable, not as a seasoning!